Dr Martens Research

Dr. Martens are a British footwear brand. The boots started with the 'Griggs' family in Northampton, Midlands. They owned a successful boot making company since 1901 and were successful, established and well respected. Grigg's saw an advertisement in the 1950's for oversea's partners for a revolutionary new air-cushioned sole. This sole was invented by Klaus Martens, a doctor in the German army during World War II. In 1945 Martens injured his ankle in a skiing accident, leading to him inventing the air cushioned sole found in Dr. Martens boots as his standard army boots were too uncomfortable on his injured foot. This partnership lead to the first pair of DM's to be sold in 1960. They were an eight-eyelet Ox Blood Smooth leather design which is still being sold until today.

The boot was both durable and comfortable and many working men adopted the boot as their chosen footwear. In the late 1960’s, Skinheads started to wear Dr. Martens to imitate the style of working class males communicating a proud sense of identity and rebellion against the mid-60’s hippie movement.

Pete Townshend, of  English rock band The Who, wore a pair of 8-eye boots on stage. In doing this he made sure that Dr. Marten’s would become a cemented signifier of subcultural style by connecting the rebellious nature of the Skinheads with the self expression of rock music.

The Punk’s embraced the boot in the 1980’s and used it as a mark of rebellion against the lack of opportunity society was providing. With these subcultural connections, the boot developed to represent unconformity, independence and liberation.

Subcultures continued to choose Dr. Martens boots as time went on; skinheads, punks, hardcore, psychobilly, goth, grunge and emo are just a few. Each group adjusted the boot in some way to make it their own. Customisation allowed individuality and creativity, making sure each pair were different.

Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer 2013

The popularity of Dr. Martens was noticed by fashion designers such as Marc Jacobs and Jean Paul Gaultier, leading to many versions being sold on the high street in stores such as Topshop and River Island.

Rihanna wearing DM's

The popularity of Dr. Marten's continues on until today, however the brand has taken a new direction. With the help of celebrity 'it' girls such as Rihanna and Niki Minaj, Dr. Marten's are becoming the chosen footwear for young teenage girls, a very different target audience from the original working class male.

The brand has developed a new image with a huge variety of colours, styles and prints being sold. Collaborations with the brand has also lead to the extreme popularity of the boot. Model Agnes Dean has designed her own range for the brand. These developments somewhat lead the brand away from the authentic image it upholds, but in order to stay a current and profitable brand alterations are needed and attracting a new audience is inevitable.